Bias woven fabric



May23, 1939. A, J GASH BIAS WOVEN FABRIC Filed Aug. 24. 1937 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 NVE NT BY &

May 23, 1939. A. J. GASH BIAS WOVEN FABRIC Filed Aug. 24, 1937 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 XGSTA/PT) NVENT R f w MW! I ATTORNEY Patented May 23, 1939 2,159,264

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE BIAS WOVEN FABRIC Annie Jean Gash, Pisgah Forest, N. 0., assignor to Donar Products Corporation, Medford, Mass., a corporation of Massachusetts Application August 24, 1937, Serial No. 160,586

9 Claims. (Cl. 139-383) This invention relates to weaving, and is difor general use in the We Whether rected more specifically to a bias woven fabric ployed in hand or machine weaving, and it is to having a selvage, which may, if desired, be probe understood that the accompanying descripvided throughout the entire periphery of the tion, while directed particularly to the composite fabric. unit type article woven by hand, is equally appli- In one aspect, my invention relates to hand cable to larger, single unit fabrics,--the weave, woven fabrics of the type which are initially the bias selvage, and the method, being applicaformed, usually with yarn or the like, in conble to any fabric made of any type of strand venient small size units, and later assembled into material.

10 a variety of composite articles, as clothing, blank- Further objects and advantages of my inven- 10 ets, rugs, Womens accessories, and household tion will be hereinafter referred to in connection sundries. Such articles in woven form are well with a description of the drawings, in which:

known products of the Weave-It, described in Fig. l is a plan of a novel strand supporting Simonds Patent No. 2,011,916. device having thereon a partially completed novel However, the selvage of each unit woven on a bias woven fabric; 15 Weave-It or similar hand loom is of a scalloped Fig. 2 is an elevation taken on the line 2-2 of formation, due to the fact that the Woven strands the supporting device, but omitting the strands of appear in the fabric as if successive picks were Fig. 1; formed by separate shuttles. This form of sel- Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic illustration of a furvage is oftentimes undesirable, as it forms an ther modified form of strand supporting device, 20 uneven seam, which is unsightly when the unit showing completion of one step in the operation is attached to an adjacent unit, as by sewing, in of forming my novel bias woven fabric;

the production of a composite article. It is Fig. 4 is a plan of amodified form of my strand therefore an object of this invention to provide a supporting device, showing a completed novel Woven fabric unit having four selvages, each of bias woven fabric formed thereon; and, 25 which is straight and even, as distinguished from Fig. 5 is a partial view of the complete novel the Weave-It and similar loom products, perwoven fabric, after removal from the strand supmitting the unit of this invention to be incorporting device.

porated in a composite article in such manner My novel strand supporting device comprises a that the unsightly seams heretofore encountered support 60, having thereon a series of pins ar- 30 are completely avoided. ranged along the perimeter of a rectangle. The

In addition, as before stated, my fabric is a support 6|] may be a solid plate, but, preferably, bias woven fabric having all the advantages it is cut out in the center or formed of separate thereof, including that of great flexibility along pieces to allow more convenient operation, as will 5 fold lines parallel or at right angles to the selbe hereinafter described. vage. For example, when employing the unit in In the embodiment shown in Fig. 1, there are a form doubled over upon itself, as in forming a provided four corner pins, a, b, c, (2, correspondcollar or a cuff for a dress or coat, my unit may ing to the corners of the support, A, B, C, D. be folded upon itself along a fold line parallel Intermediate pins a. and b is a row e of substan- 4 to the selvage which forms the collar or cuff extially equally spaced pins, which row, in this case, tremity. Yet, the unit will still have uniform happens to comprise 20 pins, an even number. flexibility along the fold line, so that the article On the opposite side of the support, between conforms itself to the neck line or wrist line of corner pins c and d, is a row 9 of pins in numthe wearer. If a straight line collar or cuff efiect ber equal to the number of pins in row e, and subwere desired in a unit product of a Weave-It stantially equally spaced as in row e. The other 4.5

or similar loom, such uniform flexibility would two rows of pins, 1 and h, between corner pins be sacrificed, as is well known. b and c, and d and a, respectively, are also sub- My fabric will be described in connection with stantially equally spaced, with intervening disa novel strand supporting device and preferred tances being substantially equal to those between 5 hand method of operating the same, which is the adjacent pins in rows e and 9, but each of the subject matter of my divisional application, Ser. rows 1 and it contains 2| pins, or one more pin No. 232,113, filed September 28, 1938, and which than either row e or row g. This is a fundamay be used, if desired, in weaving my novel mental requirement of my novel strand holding fabric. device, that each row in one set of opposite In its broader aspect, my invention is adapted parallel rows of pins shall have one more pin 55 than either of the rows of the other set of opposite parallel rows, whether corner pins be counted or not, provided that if one or both corner pins are counted in one set, one or both corner pins shall likewise be counted in the other set. Within this requirement, the total number of pins on the support may vary in accordance with the size of fabric desired.

In Fig. 4, I illustrate a device wherein rows e and g happen, each to consist of 19 pins, an odd number, and rows 1 and h each to consist of 20 pins.

As is obvious, by correct mathematical placement, the pins may be made to form a perfect square. Such formation. is diagrammatically illustrated in Fig. 3, wherein, in addition, the corner pins (which, as hereafter explained, are not necessary) have been omitted. In Fig. 3, the pins of rows e and g are somewhat more closely spaced than those of rows 1 and h, so that the total formation is along the perimeter of a square.

Fig. 3 is also a diagrammatic illustration of a device having a slightly different arrangement of pins, rows e and g having an odd number (5), and rows and h having an even number (4), as in Fig. 4, but the odd rows, 9 and g, having one more pin than the even rows.

My novel bias woven fabric may be formed conveniently on this device in the following manner:

The operation consists primarily in two steps, (1) a winding operation, and (2) an alternate winding and weaving operation. Each of these steps is very simple when understood.

Winding operation This operation comprises the formation of a framework of two layers of crossing courses by winding yarn or similar strand material around selected pins of the strand holding device, as will be hereafter explained. The corner pins,a., b, c,

d, can be utilized for'tying ends of the strand,

but these pins have no other function, and therefore maybe omitted, as shown in Fig. 3, since other suitable means can be provided on the sup: port 60 for conveniently fastening the ends.

The principle of the winding operation is as follows:

Starting from a corner of the support, fastening an end of a strand :1: in some manner, as to a corner pin, the strand is coursed to and around the diagonally opposed end pin of the opposite row having the greater number of pins; then to and around the end pin of the opposite row having the less number of pins; then back to and around the starting corner next-to-end pin of the other greater row; then to and around the neXt-to-end pin of the other less row; then diagonally across, to and around another pin in the first named greater row, skipping one pin away from the one already wound; and continuing from one row to an adjacent row, always skipping one pin in each row until the yarn is brought out at another corner from the starting corner, which corner will always be at the other end of the row having the odd number of pins from the starting corner. Thus, as diagrammatically shown in Fig. 3, if the strand a: is started at corner D, the strand is coursed to and around successively pins e5, fl, g4, m, 63, f3, g2, 714, el, and out corner C; or in Fig. 3, if the start is made at corner C, the same courses are made, but the layers will be reversed, crossing each other on opposite sides, as is obvious.

In Fig. 1, a study will reveal that the operation starts from corner A, and the strand .1: is coursed successively to and around pins jZl, gi, n23, e2, fl9, 93, M8, c4, and so on until the strand reaches pin e20, and then fl, after which it is coursed diagonally across to corner D, which corner is at the other end of the row having the odd number of pins from the starting corner A (row h).

In Fig. 4, the winding strand x (unshaded) is shown as starting at corner A, and is coursed to and around successively pins I20, gl, hi9, e2, and so on until it reaches pin gIQ, and then, hi after which the strand is coursed diagonally across to corner B, which, in this embodiment, is the corner at the other end of the row having the odd number of pins from the starting corner A, (row e).

In the same manner, in Fig. 1, the winding operation might be started at corner B, coursing strand at first to and around hi (the diagonally opposed end pin of the opposite row having the greater number of pins); then to and around 920 (end pin of the opposite row having the less number of pins). In this case the strand will come out at corner C (the corner at the other end of the row having the odd number of pins from the starting corner B, row i).

Or, if the strand :1: is started in Fig. 1 at corner C, it is coursed first to and around h2i (the diagonally opposed end pin of the opposite row having the greater number of pins); then to el (end pin of the opposite row having the less number of pins). In this case the strand will end at corner B (the corner at the other end of the row having the odd number of pins from the starting corner C, row I).

Or, if the strand 1: is started in Fig. 1 at corner D, it is coursed first to and around fl (again. the diagonally opposed end pin of the opposite row having the greater number of pins), and so on, and will end at corner A (again the corner at the other end of the row having the odd number of pins from the starting corner D, row It). In other words, it will be like Fig. 1, with the layers of the strand x reversed.

Likewise, in the device shown in Fig. 4, strand :u may be started at any corner, provided it is coursed first to and around the diagonally opposed end pin of the opposite row having the greater number of pins.

The framework thus formed may be described as a framework of two layers of crossing courses, with the courses of one layer being disposed over the courses of the other layer, and with course changes forming an equal number of loopings on three sides of the framework, and loopings one different in number on the fourth side of the framework, no one of the courses of one layer being equal in length to any other course in the same layer.

Having formed the two layers of crossing courses by the winding operation, the second step is performed, that of forming another framework interlocking with the first framework by alternately winding and weaving another strand 1/, while coursing it to and around all the pins unoccupied by the previously laid winding strand x.

Winding and weaving operation the diagonally opposed, unoccupied end pin of the opposite row having the greater number of pins; then is woven under the previously laid winding strand in, to and around the end pin of the opposite row having the less 'number of pins; then back to and around the starting corner next-to-end pin of the other greater row; and then is woven under previously laid courses of winding strand :r, and over the previously laid course of itself, to and around the next-to-end pin of the other lesser row; then diagonally across to another unoccupied pin in the first named greater row, skipping one pin away from the pin already wound by the winding and weaving strand 1 and continuing alternately weaving and winding from an unoccupied pin in one row to an unoccupied pin in an adjacent row, always skipping one pin in each row until the strand is brought out at the unoccupied fourth corner of the strand holding device.

Thus, as illustrated in Fig. l, the winding and weaving strand y is started from corner C, and is shown coursed to and around pin h'Z l, then under strand 3:, to and around a]; then over the layers of strand :5 to and around #20; then woven under previously laid courses of strand r, and over the previous course of itself, to and around 92, and so on, with the result being as shown in Fig. 1, when the strand y has reached pin all. If the alternate winding and weaving is continued, the strand will come out at corner B, the unoccupied fourth corner.

In the embodiment shown in Fig. 4, the alternate winding and weaving of strand 1 (shaded) starts at corner C, and ends at corner D.

As will be obvious, the winding and weaving operation may be started from the corner opposite the ending corner of strand x, but the operation will be more difficult because the winding courses must be laid under the previously laid layers of strand x. If such method is employed, then the strand 1/ will be woven over previously laid courses of strand x, and under previously laid courses of itself, as will be obvious from an examination of Fig. 4, if the shaded strand is started at corner D.

For use in the weaving operations, a suitable needle is convenient, the needle being preferably of a greater length than the diagonal of the strand supporting device, and of a size relative to the pin spacing to allow the needle to pass between pins of one row and pins of an adjacent row at the same time, at the angle required by the operations above described. The space formed in the center of the support is helpful in allowing manipulation of the needle to perform the weaving.

Fabric My fabric is well shown in Fig. 4, although I have also shown a partial detail thereof in Hg. 5, after removal from the supporting device, the corner illustrated being a bottom view of the corner woven at corner C of the device shown in Fig. i. The closeness of the weave is dependent upon the elasticity and/or size of the strands used relative to the pin spacing. I find that with the use of yarns, sufficient tension is normally applied to the yarn during the formation of the fabric on the strand holding device, to provide a shrinkage after removal, due to the relaxation of the strands, so as to provide a sufliciently close and tight weave.

As shown in Fig. 5, the selvage provided on all four sides of the fabric comprises a series of loops 10, each loop being formed by angularly disposed portions of one strand, interwoven with strand portions of adjacent loops. In the preferred form shown in the drawings, each alternate loop is formed by the same strand, and each selvage is disposed at an angle less than 90 degrees to all the strand portions of its loops.

Such selvage is very even and is readily adapted for attachment to other articles, as by sewing, without resulting in unsightly'seams.

In Fig. 4, the fabric is provided with four selvages, two of which obviously each have one more loop than either of the other two sides. The same feature would be present in the fabric of Fig. 1 when completed. The shape of the fabric is dependent upon the pin formation; if a square fabric is desired, the pins may be formed as shown in Fig. 3, an equal number of pins being added to each row according to the size of fabric desired.

In the fabric shown in Fig. 4, every course of both strands, with the exception of the two courses adjoining the ends of each of strands a: and y, integrally join parallel courses of unequal length. It will also be noted that every course change is located at a selvage; that successive courses of one strand alternate in diagonal directions; that alternate courses of either strand either increase or decrease in length, and intervening courses, conversely, either decrease or increase in length.

These and other characteristics inherent in the fabrics shown in the drawings, are set forth in the appended-claims.

In the above specification, the word courses has been used as a generic term to indicate what would be warp and weft threads in a fabric not bias woven. The terms warp and weft have not been used to avoid confusion. Therefore, in the appended claims, the word course refers to that portion of a strand of my woven fabric which, before removal of the fabric from the support, lies between a pin of one row and a pin of another row, or between a pin of one row and a corner of the support (the four courses of maximum length); or, in other words, to a strand which, after removal of the fabric from the support, would constitute either a warp or a weft thread in a normally woven fabric. Accordingly, the term coursing in the appended claims refers to the act of laying a course, as above defined.

It will be obvious that instead of employing a single strand :1; any number of strands might be employed, but another pin for each new strand used must be added for each pin now present, so that in winding a plurality of strands, there will be a plurality of pins positioned to receive the plurality of strands at each change of course. In such arrangement the pins may be suitably spaced in groups, without equal spacing of all the pins.

After winding a plurality of .r strands, either one or more strands y may be used. Additional pins will likewise have to be added for each new y strand used, and the indicating means can be arranged to distinguish pins intended to hold strands :c and those intended to hold strands y.

I claim:

1. A rectangular bias woven fabric consisting of two continuous strands interwoven with each other, adjoining courses of each strand being disposed at substantially right angles to each other, and every course of both strands except the two courses adjoining the respective ends of each of said strands joining parallel courses of unequal length.

2. A rectangular bias woven fabric having woven selvages on all four sides comprising two continuous interwoven strands, adjoining courses of each strand being disposed at substantially right angles to each other, and each course change being located at a straight selvage which is disposed at an angle of less than 90 to said courses.

3. A rectangular bias woven fabric having woven selvages on all four sides, every strand course in the body portion of said fabric being either substantially parallel to or disposed at an angle of approximately 90 to every other strand course in said body portion and every strand course in said body portion being disposed at an angle of approximately to all four of said selvages and being integral with a course disposed at substantially right angles to itself.

4. A rectangular unit of bias woven fabric comprising diagonally arranged interwoven courses of yarn, said yarn having loops forming woven selvages on all four sides of said unit.

5. A rectangular unit of bias woven fabric comprising interwoven courses of yarn, said yarn having a series of approximately loops forming woven selvages on all four sides of said unit.

6. A rectangular bias woven fabric having a woven selvage on all four sides, all of said selvages being formed, between corners of said fabric, by a series of loops comprising successive continuous strand portions disposed at an angle of approximately 90 degrees to each other, each loop being interwoven with adjacent loops, every strand course in the body portion of said fabric being either substantially parallel to or disposed at an angle of approximately 90 degrees to every other strand course in said body portion, and every strand course in said body portion being disposed at an angle of approximately 45 degrees to all four of said selvages.

'7. A woven fabric having four straight sel vages, each selvage comprising interwoven loops of strands, two of said selvages being parallel and each having one more loop only than either of the other two selvages.

8. A foldless woven fabric having two selvages connecting at right angles to each other, each selvage comprising a series of successive loops formed by non-parallel angularly disposed strand portions interwoven with strand portions of adjacent loops.

9. That step in weaving whichcomprises forming a rectangular framework of two layers of crossing courses of a single strand, with the courses of one layer disposed over the courses of the other layer at an angle of approximately 90 thereto, and with course changes forming an equal number of loops on three sides of said framework and loops one different in number on the fourth side of said framework, no one of the courses of one layer being equal in length to any other course in the same layer;

ANNIE JEAN GASH. 

